慢游潮州古城,感受与世无争的小城时光
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="image-loaded" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_gOPCsDmP.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p>潮州可以说是个独特的存在,悠久的历史和自成一派的文化传承让人印象深刻。潮州方言、潮剧、潮州音乐、潮州工艺、潮州菜和潮州工夫茶等都是其中的代表。在外人眼中,潮州人是敢于闯天下和艰苦打拼的,也是保守和遵循传统的。</p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_KYpdcOJU.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p>善于抱团的潮州人早已经在商届闯出名堂,潮商成为中国影响力最大的商帮之一,如今遍布海外的潮州人已经将他们的文化、传统、日常饮食等各方面带到了世界各地。正是这种极具影响力的传播让我对潮州文化产生了浓厚的兴趣,于是我决定到潮州这座古城去寻根溯源。</p>
<h1>潮州古城</h1>
<p>从广州到潮州,交通还是颇为方便,高速、飞机、列车都可以。光是列车就有动车和高铁可以选择,无论是从广州东站还是广州南站,每天都有多趟列车往返两地。从广州到高铁潮汕站,只需要两个来小时。</p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_7XgwYnJJ.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">到达潮州,第一时间当然直奔</span><span class="a a5">潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">,这个以</span><span class="a a5">牌坊街</span><span class="a a5">为核心的老城区是个充满活力的地方。古城古镇我去过不少,但</span><span class="a a5">潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">却和大部分古城不一样,这是一座活着的古城。这一点,从踏入这座城便可清晰感受到。不像那些为了旅游开放而改造的古城,</span><span class="a a5">潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">甚至不是旅游区,而是国家历史文化名城。不需要门票,却处处有看头。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ADaUCuVG.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">这里还是潮州最繁华的步行街,平时总是人头攒动,站在街上会被人潮带动着你到处逛。各种传统的新潮的货品都能在这里找到。很多从海外归来的游子都会特意在这里找寻一些当地的特色小吃。对于他们来说,这些就是家乡的味道。仿佛一口美食进肚,基因里深处的所有家乡感觉都被激活了。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_Hsys7FpB.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<h1>社光村</h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">逛完了潮州古城</span><span class="a a5">我们来到了</span><span class="a a5">韩江</span><span class="a a5">东面</span><span class="a a5">的社光村</span><span class="a a5">。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_7ZwtZi4I.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">社光村</span><span class="a a5">是潮州菜篮子工程的重点蔬菜基地,也是潮州一个发展比较好的新农村。但很多人其实不知道这里还是“广东省文化和旅游特色村”首批入选村。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_GgirydPm.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">这里有整齐的村道、村民休闲的广场、图书阅览等,甚至村民们还集资建了非常现代化的花园式楼盘,但我偏偏这里的老房子更感兴趣。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_a90PVll8.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">这是潮州地区的一种经典民居形式:驷马拖车</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_GdkaSNkR.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">这些未经修饰的旧民居,行走在其中,仿佛穿越回到旧时。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_BnKEXUde.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">村子位于笔架山南麓、</span><span class="a a5">韩江</span><span class="a a5">北溪之畔,是个山清水秀的地方。很适合随便闲逛和摄影。</span></p>
<h1><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span></h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">坐落</span><span class="a a5">在砚峰山麓</span><span class="a a5">,前面是碧绿的夏湖。我们来到的时候正好烟雨朦胧,竟让人有种错入水墨画中的感觉。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_OVKATJ0L.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">颇具古色古香风韵的</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">,坐东面西,依山傍水,入口是一座耸立的大石牌坊,三门歇山顶建筑,高</span><span class="a a5">16</span><span class="a a5">米,气势恢宏磅礴,正中题“东粤菁华”,两侧分别书有“金声”“玉振”,皆是国学大师饶宗颐先生的手迹。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_uUHi03mQ.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">牌坊到正殿是三进石阶,院内花圃簇拥着石雕的麒麟、青狮、盘龙及鉎牛等吉祥物。有说法这头鉎牛便是</span><span class="a a5">广济桥</span><span class="a a5">上被冲走的那头。不过并没有严谨的科学证明哦,当是传说便好。主殿正中匾碑“</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">”三个</span><span class="a a5">馏</span><span class="a a5">金大字由傅杰所书,是从泰国的</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">拓本移植的。主殿门外挂上阴刻对联“远望观云,登高视野”,为原全国佛协会长、书法家赵朴初墨迹。殿内是佛祖释迦牟尼全身金像,两旁是“飞天大圣”塑像。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_IZIdI7ll.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">后面的交泰殿,是</span><span class="a a5">淡浮院</span><span class="a a5">主要收藏展览大殿。“交泰”中与北京故宫藏宝玺殿名相同,均取自《易》经“天地交泰”之意,但此处另有中泰文化交流之意。殿内有泰皇亲</span><span class="a a5">赐</span><span class="a a5">《玛哈蒙空佛像》一组金佛以及中华文化代表文物。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_OEPjm5Oq.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">交泰殿的对面,有一座颇有深意的雕塑,名字叫无,可以细品</span><span class="a a5">。</span></p>
<h1>狮峰村</h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">初见狮峰村让我眼前一亮,村外的</span><span class="a a5">白鹭湖此时</span><span class="a a5">布满含苞待放的荷花,隔湖相</span><span class="a a5">望的是潮州的传统“下山虎”、“四点金”古民居。村后的狮山是风水学中的靠山,在极讲究风水的潮州人心目中,这个“前有照,后有靠”的地方必然是个风水宝地。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_FHLLaKhX.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">这里之所以叫白鹭湖,是因为这里长期栖息着成群的白鹭,但白鹭比较怕人,在白天游人多的时候,只能偶尔看到不太怕人的池鹭。图中那只红头白身体的鸟儿便是池鹭。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_U9q3bqV8.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">夏季到了,荷花成了白鹭湖里的主角,湖里的荷花大都处于含苞待放的状态。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_lCaxUGLc.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">荷花出淤泥而不</span><span class="a a5">染,濯清涟而不妖的特性,一直被誉为花中君子。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_x98v5wFS.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">湖中的荷花只可远观而不可亵玩,洁身自爱,历来都是摄影师喜欢拍摄的对象。如果想要拍荷花,记得要带上长焦镜头,不然站在湖边,望着湖中的荷花也只能徒叹鞭长莫及。</span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">蜻蜓也钟爱这里,正是小荷才露尖尖脚,早有蜻蜓立上头。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ah2Gwo22.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">白鹭湖上专门放了</span><span class="a a5">一台制雾的</span><span class="a a5">机器,古村、荷花和雾气相映,竟有点像王母娘娘的瑶池。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_PdOXzurS.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">此时此地,我想起杨万里诗中描写的“映日荷花别样红,接天莲叶无穷碧”。想必描写的便是这样的情景。</span><span class="a a5">bw</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ZxBXVjJm.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">许多周边的游客,特地赶来狮峰村赏荷</span><span class="a a5">。</span></p>
<h1><span class="a a5">凤凰山</span></h1>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">凤凰山的海拔有一千多米,一年中几乎有一半的日子被云雾缭绕,这也造就了这里独特的高山云雾茶。凤凰山出产的凤凰单</span><span class="a a5">枞</span><span class="a a5">茶远近闻名。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_cuNLqkzF.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">一大早爬山到凤凰山天池,结果全在云雾里,什么都没拍到,倒是下山的时候才看到茶园从云雾中显露出来的场景。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_gOcr0QLZ.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">凤凰山的云海是非常美的,可惜我们来的时间点不对,凤凰山区的湿度非常高,水气常常会形成云海。日落时分来到山上,有机会看到非常震撼的云海。</span></p>
<p class="imgbox"><span class="image-box"><img class="" src="http://i3.lis99.com/upload/topics/2020/08/21/1597981813_ceHSwytk.jpg!large" alt="" /><br /></span></p>
<p>凤凰山上连绵的茶园也是一景,从高处看,也是非常壮观的。</p>
<p class="a a5"><span class="a a5">细品一座城,余味未尽,余音缭绕</span><span class="a a5">……</span></p>
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